August 30, 2005

Chez Panisse

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When A and I visited my Brother in Berkeley, we stopped by Chez Panisse for an exciting lunch. It was the perfect season in Berkeley. The purple and white wisterias were in full bloom in the neighboring streets and around Chez Panisse. It was April and all the plants were vibrant green and thriving. The front patio, which I thought was really pretty, offered a cool retreat from the sun while we waited for a table.

We marched up the stairs, passing the kitchen area to sit by the windows with white wisterias hanging outside and proceeded to order our lunch.

Bread and Butter
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This was your standard bread and butter. Enough said. On to more exciting fare.

Garden Lettuce Salad
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I ordered the garden lettuce salad, which as you can see, is just fresh salad greens dressed with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a little salt and pepper. It tasted fine but I wish I had ordered something a little more exciting, like the ...

Green Garlic Broth with Snap Peas
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Brother had ordered the garlic broth and it was delicious! While it could potentially have been potent and pungent (and produced a scary-breath Brother), this broth was instead surprisingly light, clear, and flavorful with a mild spring garlic flavor.

Sonoma County Duck Breast with Asparagus and Green Olives
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This dish reaffirmed my dislike of olives or at least such strong-tasting olives. The duck was nicely executed, juicy in the middle and more well done towards the skin. The asparagus was tender — they had obviously taken care to peel the tougher part of the stems. But the olives just bugged me. There weren't very many actual olives on the plate but it had such a strong presence that both the duck and asparagus tasted of olive and not much else.

Pizza with Parma Prosciutto and Greens
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A ordered this thin crust pizza and we all sampled a thin slice. The greens, though unidentifiable, were quite good — neither too wilted nor too stringy. The good quality proscuitto, sliced extremely thin so as to not make you feel like you are chewing like a cow, helped to make the pizza delicious.

Grilled Cattail Creek Ranch Lamb Leg with Peas, Carrots, Mashed Potatoes, and Anchovy
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Brother ordered this dish, which I thought was a real winner. Our recent trip to The French Laundry had me raving about fresh peas, and the peas in this dish reminded me again of how much I loved them. I practiced great restraint and allowed the Brother to finish more than 50% of his peas in peace. The lamb was tasty as well, but the anchovy was a little strong for my taste.

Hazelnut-Ricotta Cake with Swanton Farm Strawberries and Strega Cream
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Dense crumbly cake paired with light fluffy cream and macerated strawberries is always a good pick for dessert. Especially if the cake is hazelnut flavored!

Chocolate Custard with Espresso Cream and Candied Almonds
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Sadly, I must confess I have a very foggy recollection of how this dessert tasted. Hm... I think the chocolate custard reminded me of a chocolate pot de crème. The biscotti on the side were quite crunchy, I think... Oh, A says that he remembers they would have been better with coffee.

Honey Nougat Ice Cream with Pain D’amandes
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Having this ice cream was like having gelato, both in its lightly-whipped texture and with the thin almond tuilles served alongside. Add the delicate flavor of honey and the little bits of nougat, and this was a simple, yet refreshing way to wrap up the meal.

We stuffed ourselves silly and got to take home the leftover food in this nice box.

I know this is sacrilegious to say, knowing how almost everybody raves about Chez Panisse and how it is such a Mecca for foodies, but I did not love my first meal there. Perhaps it was what I ordered or they were just having a bad day, but I left the restaurant feeling a little disappointed due to the incongruous taste of many of our dishes. However, there were several highlights which indicate to me that this restaurant can and does produce fabulous food — food that would make me swoon. I would like to go back another day and give them a second chance. Could those of you who felt you had a great experience recommend some dishes that you enjoyed and felt lived up to the name of Chez Panisse and Alice Waters?

Places to Feed | Posted by J on 08.30.05 at 11:15 AM
Comments

Great review, and thanks for saying (or at least implying) what needed to be said -- Chez Panisse is rather overrated.

I give Alice Waters all of the credit in the world for giving birth to the concept of seasonal cooking in particular and even California cuisine as a whole, and I greatly admire her efforts as an advocate for sustainable agriculture. But in my view, translating the significant accolades that she deserves on those fronts into over-the-top praise for Chez Panisse -- as I think many do -- is a real mistake. As far as I'm concerned, from the basic perspective of food taste, presentation and service, Chez Panisse is nowhere near the quality of The French Laundry, The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Manresa, Gary Danko, or a host of other top-tier establishments in the Bay Area.

Posted by: NS at August 30, 2005 05:22 PM

NS,

Wow! I am so glad you understand. I was actually a little unsure about posting a less than brilliantly glowing account of our meal at CP especially since I've only been there once and had a limited sampling of their dishes. :( The truth was, I felt I've had better meals at other restaurants and it didn't feel right to distort how I felt even if it was the first time.

-J.

Posted by: J at September 1, 2005 05:54 PM