Sweet & Savory

Everyday Comfort Food

In early November of last year, J went on a business trip to Minnesota and left me to fend for myself in the kitchen. Cooking for one, I feel, is a lonely business, and so I found myself searching for some comfort food. Comfort food, by my definition, has to be thick, hearty, and soulful. What could fit the bill better than beans?

I could have gone with a beany minestrone soup (even J, who claims to detest beans with a vengeance, cannot resist a hearty minestrone) but instead I opted for a purer celebration of this succulent legume. The recipe, from Annie Somerville's cookbook Everyday Greens, was titled, simply,

Warm White Beans

Serves 4 to 6

• 1 cup cannellini beans, about 6 oz, sorted and soaked overnight
• 7 cups cold water
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 or 3 sprigs fresh marjoram or oregano
• 5 sprigs parsley
• 3 or 4 fresh sage leaves
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ large yellow onion, diced, about 1 cup
• Salt and pepper
• ½ tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 celery rib, diced, about ½ cup
• 1 small carrot, peeled and diced, about ½ cup
• ½ cup white wine
• 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

Drain and rinse the beans. Place them in a large saucepan with the water, bay leaf and herbs. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, until they're tender but still hold their shape, at least 1 hour.

While the beans are cooking, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small skillet. Add the onions, ¼ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper and cook over medium heat until the onions begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, celery, and carrots and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the wine and cook until the pan is nearly dry, about 3 minutes.

Remove the bay leaf and herbs and add the vegetables, the remaining olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Cook over medium-low heat until the beans begin to break apart and the broth is slightly thickened, about 30 minutes. Add the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper just before serving.